I bit off more than I can chew


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So this is a repost more or less from Stanceworks, but I figured why not post it here too. Not a lot of technical support on stance works really.

So I've never done a build like this before, so basically everything is a learning experience. It's more fun that way I guess

The goals were simple, build a fun clean car that would be safe, reliable and reasonably priced and probably track it.

well found this guy on craigslist for dirt cheap, kid thought it need a clutch or transmission. When I got home I found an empty clutch master and a leaking slave cylinder. $20 later...

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Had some awesome stereo install in it (not)

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but it did have a fancy momo wheel and hub, a clean body and the engine ran.

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I drove it on the weekends for a short while and decided rotary wasn't my thing. This was kinda my first mistake. I decided i wanted to build a ridiculously awesome car that expanded my skills and knowledge, and because I had recently done an engine swap in my daily I decided it needed to be unique and have some different kind of engine.

In hindsight I should have just enjoyed the low power and done suspension etc first maybe do auto X and drift in the rain.

but no

I was talked into the ford small block. buddy has a sick fox mustang that he bought around the same time, and when he started getting me to help work on it and buy parts I was blown away by how simple it all was and cheap! After a little bit of google I found Granny's speed shop and this:

http://www.speedhunters.com/2009/04/speehunters_gt_gt_car_feature_gt_gt_v8_mazda_rx7_triangle_blasphemy/

rest is history.

Yanked the engine/trans/wiring and sold it for pretty close to what i paid for the car,

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as well as most of the interior, which was in horrible condition.

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Threw away/recycled most of the stuff I wouldn't be using, but saved the good stuff.

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Then proceeded to remove absolutely everything from the body

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That box is a Granny's swap kit I snagged for half of retail on ebay. I was a bit in the dark on what exactly I was buying, but when it arrived it was a 302 kit with the T5 crossmember and even had the aluminum driveshaft upgrade!

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my dad was less than impressed with all the crap accumulated in the garage however

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Long term projects like this can get annoying that way, I have to re-organize and clean everything at least once a month.

At this time I was still working as an installer, so on my breaks and during other free time I took my centre bezel and gauge bezel and flushed them.

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While that doesn't sound like a big deal, those after paint had crazy hours into them. Not sure if I would do them again the same way..

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The mirrors weren't looking good either, so I took them apart cleaned them out of now useless wiring and rust and fixed the cracks. Painted them but can't find a finished pic

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Bought these JIC's from Ed for cheap, they'll work until I can make better ones (yes I said make, as in fab out of universal Bilsteins)

So after like an entire winter or so just stripping the car down, removing undercoating, removing sound deadener (the wrong way too, use dry ice) and doing tonnes of research, we got to here:

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Oh and I started using a decent camera too

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picked up a mono seat somewhere along the way. Hard to find a seat that fits my tall skinny self...

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Among random part buying I got a useless parts block, so I threw the kit in there and the intake to see how close it was all gonna fit

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Hood clearance is a concern, I don't want to have to cut a hole in my hood. Even with the Sn95 style intake (which is the shortest) it's gonna be close.

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Yes I used a lawn mower to pull it out of the garage lol

Now somewhere around here is when I "lost" my 240sx, this is when the drift bug bit me hard. But the next time that happens the car was gonna need to be safer.

Have a buddy who works at Metaltropolis in Maple Ridge industrial park (great guys hit them up for any metal needs and welding supplies) so I got some 1.5" .120 wall DOM and had it bent to fit.

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Finished my gauge panel somewhere in here (my timeline is probably way off by now)

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One of the biggest things I want for this car is simple. Easy to work on, old school raw feel. So bye bye power steering, I'm probably gonna regret it drifting but we'll see.

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These things don't weld very good when they have been soaking in fluid they're entire life. Shout out to my buddy Andy for all the help welding different stuff. He's been able to do all the critical stuff thus far. I suck at welding too much to do anything important.

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back together, but holding off finishing until my Abercrombie kit comes.

Made a bunch of test pieces out of the left overs from the bender, and gave some to Andy to get familiar with.

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Can you believe that was with a stick welder? I was impressed.

Learned how to make a decent cope with an angle grinder

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Bring in the Rig time to get something done

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*cue montage music*

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Sometimes to get complete coverage you have to do things that Work Safe BC frowns upon. But who cares

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Tangent: isn't welding pretty?

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^ that one is my laptop background atm

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some gusseting. Decided not to go nuts on the dimple plate gusset everything blah blah. Car is seriously stiff as is, and its just more weight.

I got all excited and put the dash in while waiting to find time to finish welding the cage, then took pics

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While it looks like I mis-cut having extra on the inside makes getting the dash in and out easier. And that is the goal.

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oh ya seat belt mounts too, for those SFI rated RCI harness's

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Don't have pics of the seat mounting, but its basically sitting on 1" square tubing welded to the floor. Nuts sunk and welded into the square tube and thats what the slider bolts to.

grade 8 e'rythang

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Scored these guys from edmonds batteries in langley, they still have some if anyone is interested. They're actually Odyessy PC545. I grabbed 2 cuz they were cheap, and this way I don't have to worry about using juice after shutting down the engine.

Going with dual masters and wilwood bias adjusting stuff.

Pro tip: Mopac sells deals a company called "Racing Performance Company" I think they operate some factories that make car parts. One of which is wilwood. This pedal set is half the cost of the Wilwood one but I think it was a cosmetic reject from their assemble line. Saving money where safe is good.

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Still going proper wilwood with the masters tho

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After a bit experimenting I found a mounting solution that was strong and still allowed me to remove the pedals with the dash and steering column in place

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Sold a flipper vehicle and bought a motor and trans combo from a 94 Mustang GT (hat tip Gary's auto wrecking). I basically explained what i was looking to do and got the entire engine swap and then some for a deal.

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Highlights are:

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BBK 70mm throttle body

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Steeda Tri-ax short shifter

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BBK equal length headers (would've preferred unequal but who cares)

And a BBK cold air that I can't find a pic. As well as the rad, driveshaft, all wiring, ECU, etc etc.

Made the engine simpler

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Swapped the injectors to 98 explorer ones (better spray pattern)

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Rad fan fits pretty good on the stock FC rad

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And before I get off topic, is the stock rad have plastic end tanks? Mine is a performance radiator, not oem. I don't know if this is a oem replacement rad, but its all copper and has no plastic. some one wiser help here?

Got a bunch of suspension parts as well

Energy master

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DTSS eliminatori ala racing beat

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Parts Shop Max rear everything except toe arms

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and a gift, a hurst cue ball. I love these things

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anyway on the excruciatingly long process of stitch welding and doing small things like filling holes in the firewall

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really happy with this, keeps the oem look there, but still covered without using some thing that can melt like rubber grommets.

oh ya got a tach too

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el cheapo

For the lolz and because I'm bored heres my tool box. been throwing stickers on it for like 2 1/2 years now

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all for now. Provided y'all are gentle I'll update here as it happens

Edited by Tyson Floris
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Posted · Report post

Thumbs up. I remember this car being on craigslist awhile ago for nice and cheap. Hood fitment is always the black eye on these builds, you seem to be doing a good job though. Carry on

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Posted · Report post

Damn didn't realize your build was so thorough dude. Definitely waiting for updates.

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Updates wont be for about 8 months here.... lolz jokes.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I was hoping I would get to see how that DOM tubing turned out in the car, I work at Metaltropolis, haha. Looks good, your friend does some decent welding too.

Oh and what are you running for a differential? Have you thought about bracing your rear subframe at all?

Edited by Ben Osborne

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Posted · Report post

She's a GXL so likely the stock LSD. They're pretty good units.

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She's a GXL so likely the stock LSD. They're pretty good units.

is it gonna be able to handle the torque? just wondering

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Posted (edited) · Report post

thanx guys!

finished stitching the bottom of the car, now for the pretty stuff in the bay/interior. But will have to wait till after the holidays probably

Updates wont be for about 8 months here.... lolz jokes.

ya cuz ill be busy babysitting you work on your car lol

how can you tell Simon? It doesn't have the badging anywhere, but it has all the options, including a LSD. I once found an option chart, was way complicated

She's a GXL so likely the stock LSD. They're pretty good units.

is it gonna be able to handle the torque? just wondering

and provided I keep the wheel hop under control, It should handle it well enough. Maybe do a ford 8.8 IRS or a Winters somewhere down the line.. aha dreaming

I was hoping I would get to see how that DOM tubing turned out in the car, I work at Metaltropolis, haha. Looks good, your friend does some decent welding too.

Oh and what are you running for a differential? Have you thought about bracing your rear subframe at all?

do you? trippy, I had no idea lol..

btw are you Josh Osbourne's Cousin? If so we totally went to the same birthday parties in like gr.4 lol

feel free to come take a look in person, and man can he ever weld. You've probably met Andy then if you've worked there that long

Subframe will be welded in the trouble areas, and the solid bushings should stop movement. There's another mod I can do if its a problem, but its not legal in FD or autoX (that I know of)

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=3659.45

Edited by Tyson Floris
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Posted · Report post

The electronic suspension adjustments gave it away. GXL only. As far as I know the stock diffs can handle 500+whp. Some guys have done 9s on stock drivelines. How much power are you planning to run?

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yeah, I cut that last piece of DOM you needed for your cage and filled your welding gas up, haha. I've only been there for about 5 months.

Yes, Josh is my cousin.

I like the direction you are going with this FC, it would be cool to see it in person. Just don't go paint your interior/cage some weird ass color that doesn't match anything, I hate it when people do that.


Edited by Ben Osborne

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Posted · Report post

this fucking rules

5.0's are rad as shit.

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haha thanx ^

for now I'm expecting the stock (and bolt ons) like 240 hp should be adequate. We all know how that goes though lol.

The electronic suspension adjustments gave it away. GXL only. As far as I know the stock diffs can handle 500+whp. Some guys have done 9s on stock drivelines. How much power are you planning to run?

and its gonna stay classy, white engine bay, white roll cage black interior.

yeah, I cut that last piece of DOM you needed for your cage and filled your welding gas up, haha. I've only been there for about 5 months.

Yes, Josh is my cousin.

I like the direction you are going with this FC, it would be cool to see it in person. Just don't go paint your interior/cage some weird ass color that doesn't match anything, I hate it when people do that.

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some work gone down since the holidays,

cut a bunch of holes

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so i could patch the rusted areas

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man I hate this stuff, its impossible to make it look right. I just concentrated on making it strong and so it won't happen again. Grinding it down has since ensued.

Got all the stitch welding done, cut some slack tho, I was basically still learning to weld when I started (went bottom to top, rear to front so the top would be prettier) and the machine I was using was less than ideal. but hey loaner was free

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bad news here tho, I was hoping to not remove the windshield. I could drive it sooner, the car would hold perfect shape when the cage was being put it, and no expense of having to get a new one placed in. However, after all this grinding and welding on the inside the splatter has embedded itself in the safety glass layer. I can chip the bits out but they leave a mark behind. So out came the window, as its basically now junk.

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razor, some wire, guy on each end and some patience to get that out...

But kinda bummed, Because I should've just saved the hassle and taken it out months ago. Any ideas on how much a new windshield will cost and install? or repairing the old one?

flip side there is some rust up top there I can now deal with….

also got this for the dash

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Christmas wasn't bad to me either

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few things to make working on in easier. and lucky for Sean the low pro even fits under his car without boards! time saver

As I type this tho, all the welding is done save for a hole or two that I can take care of really quick. I would've taken pics tonight, but a trip to Mcd's was in order. Gotta pay back my welder buddy somehow lol. it'll give me something to do tomorrow afternoon

The subframe's are out and disassembled. have some bushings to put in, and we reinforced the front diff mount on the rear subframe. then clean it all up, paint it black or something and start putting everything back together. I want to put the engine in and drill some holes etc (small things) before I try to paint it. Not looking forward to paint really… sounds like work lol.

anyway I'll try and grab more pics tomorrow for your viewing pleasure

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I did the same shit to my windshield a long time ago when we were welding stuff in the bay lol. Mine was mostly at the very bottom of it so ive just kinda been living with it. Keep up the good work tho! Painting does suck imo but it'll be worth it :)

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Going rate for non-OEM windshield replacements are $250 installed I believe. Haven't seen anything cheaper than that.

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Yah my car woo

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I did the same shit to my windshield a long time ago when we were welding stuff in the bay lol. Mine was mostly at the very bottom of it so ive just kinda been living with it. Keep up the good work tho! Painting does suck imo but it'll be worth it :)

thanks man. I hope my bay will turn out even half as pretty as yours!

Going rate for non-OEM windshield replacements are $250 installed I believe. Haven't seen anything cheaper than that.

thats not horrible actually.. I'm down to get rid of the tint and little heater lines embedded on my current one.

fixed

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fixed

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and fixed

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^ this was a hard yet important one. Basically the whole seam connecting the firewall was gone. Rust and a bad seam seal did not make it easy, but thankfully Andy managed.

then while he did these

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and the diff mount on the subframe

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(sorry for blurries)

I went to town with a grinder

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and tried to smooth that all out.

Then went back to doing the rear bushings… these DTSS things aren't easy looking. Probably gonna have to use a press and heat to get them out.

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and a few closeups of the stitch welds.

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And thats basically it.

haha somebody want to buy an iPhone 4 to help me buy all my AN stuff?

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Yah my car woo

you. make your own thread already

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why not share a thread? RX7 SIlvia s13 Swag Build

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why not share a thread? RX7 SIlvia s13 Swag Build

do it lol

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back at it again this week

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got the rears all disassembled,

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They looking dirty, nobody likes it dirty

mating surfaces look good tho

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so I attacked them with a wire wheel really quick, wasn't going to spend too much time on a part that will get covered in tire rubber

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and them threw some paints on the steel parts

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Got some bearings from work, and pressed it all together in my ghetto shop press. The thing scares me to use, it slips out every now and then

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got those pesky DTSS eliminators in, those didn't want to go either

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speaking of not wanting to go anywhere, these trailing arm bushings are cray.

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I got one out, but when i tried to get the other ones out…..

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ya. So i'm getting a buddy to use a torch on the rest of them

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The fronts on the other hand are in good shape! which I didn't expect. I'll maybe do new bearings/races when I get modded knuckles, but I'll just clean these up for now.

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these went nice though, heres a before and after. Energy bushings and a good clean

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and for the giggles, I wasted a buncha time doing this

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aaaaaand heres a teaser of what I hope to do this weekend

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I had a 1987 gxl with a 5.0L swap. I blew the welded rearend in a week of street driving. Be careful with the n/a rear regardless

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Are those Performance World fittings black anodized?

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Are those Performance World fittings black anodized?

I believe so, but i'm not 100% sure

I had a 1987 gxl with a 5.0L swap. I blew the welded rearend in a week of street driving. Be careful with the n/a rear regardless

ya I don't have high expectations, but there's enough dude running v8 and bias ply slicks on drag strips that don't blow them. seems to be that the rotary drifters destroy more rear end parts than v8 ones...

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Dont those rotarys produce huge torque?

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